Chapter 2

"The Plan"
The second installment


    As a rule, I don't usually spend a lot of time working on detailed drawings and plans of my projects. A basic sketch of what I'm after is usually sufficient. But for a harp like this, it is necessary to work up a full sized drawing for a variety of reasons. The most important of those is the sharping lever placement. I like to build all of my harps with room on the neck for sharping levers, even harps that will not have levers installed initially. Later on down the road, as the players skill increases, he or she will want to add levers, and it's a real bummer if there isn't sufficient room on the neck for them. To accomplish this, you need to lay out the string schedule on paper, calculate the prescribed distance from the sharping lever to the bridge pin, and then adjust the profile of the neck of the harp to allow for their installation. [plan]In this photo, I have only plotted the harmonic curve of the tuning pins, bridge pins, and the levers. The final shape of the neck will be altered later, but the most important dimensions can now be calculated. As you can see, there is a relationship between the curves of the bridge pins and the levers. As the string length gets shorter, the distance from the lever to the bridge is also decreased. For more detailed information on the string schedule for this harp, as well as how to calculate the lever placement, see the SUPPLEMENT attachment that has been added to the project.

    Now that I have this plotted, I am ready to calculate how much Maple I need to get. It's not just a matter of board feet, but the wood I get must also be wide enough to cut this shape out of it in one piece. It would be possible to use 2 narrower pieces and edge glue them together, but that's more work, and a bit of a hassle. Bear in mind that you'll need to cut 2 of these out of 4/4 stock, and laminate them together. Surfaced 4/4 stock is actually 3/4" thick, so we'll have a neck that is 1 & 1/2" thick. We laminate 2 pieces for strength. We'll also do the same for the pillar. On my drawing here, I have determined that I need to get a piece of wood that is at least 8" wide. I'll need 2 of these neck pieces, and each one will be about 2 feet long, so there is 4 feet. I know the pillar is going to be less than 3' long, and I can cut both pieces from an 8" wide board, so there's 3 more feet, for a total of 7 feet. The soundbox is treated a bit differently. I like to use stock that is from 1/4" to 3/8" thick for the sides of the soundbox. This makes it necessary to buy thicker stock, re-saw it, and surface plane it. For this I'll purchase 5/4 or 6/4 stock. If none is available, I'll go ahead and get 8/4 stock because I always have a need for thin stock in my shop. If all you can locate is 4/4 stock, you merely need to adjust your board footage so that you'll have enough stock to make the box. This soundbox will be made with 6 pieces, not counting the soundboard. 2 back pieces, 2 corner pieces, and 2 sides. It would be possible to make the back a single piece, but I like to "book match" the grain on the back and sides. Because these pieces are all long tapers, you can save material costs if you don't worry about book matching the grain. You can flip the tapers end for end and cut your pieces out side by side, minimizing waste.

    We're also going to need extra stock for the base of the soundbox, thickeners for the neck where it fits the top of the soundbox, a top plate for the soundbox that the neck will mate with, the feet of the harp, and some internal bracing pieces, so just to be on the safe side, I'll buy extra material. Be sure to look for kiln dried hardwood, or hardwood that has cured properly. So I need a minimum of 7 feet of 4/4 lumber at least 8" wide for the neck and pillar. I'll also use 4/4 lumber for the neck thickeners and internal braces, so I'll pick up another piece at least 6 feet long, and the width is not critical. For the soundbox sides I'll need 6/4 or 8/4 stock, preferably about 6" wide or more. This will have to be a bare minimum of 4 feet long for the soundbox, but I'll want to make the feet and the base out of thicker stock as well, so I'll try to get at least 6 to 8 feet.

    That's about it for the preliminary calculations and drawing. Next we'll get some wood and actually start cutting some pieces. From here on, we're going to have actual photos of the harp in progress. Thanks for your patience through all of this technical stuff.


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